Computer died

AmigaOne X1000 platform specific issues.

Re: Computer died

Postby mechanic » Wed Mar 29, 2017 7:01 pm

kilaueabart wrote:No, no X1000. I haven't heard from Amigakit for a long time, so I just asked whether I must consider that compute to be junk.


Before you go removing the X1000 motherboard there is one more possibility to investigate.

1. Remove/Disconnect everything except the CFcard. Yes that includes the graphics card and memory sticks.
---Push the white tabs back toward the board to remove the memory. They go back in only one way.

2. Switch ON. Which motherboard LEDs are ON?
---On my X1000, the 2 LEDs on the right blink ON as soon as the power button is pressed and then
---immediately go OFF. Then the three LEDs just to their left lite up and stay ON.

3. If your LEDs are as they should be re-insert the memory, a good push untill the tabs self lock in,
---and test the LEDs again.

Let us know this info before going further.

LEDs without mem.?
LEDs with mem.?

Good Luck.
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Re: Computer died

Postby kilaueabart » Thu Mar 30, 2017 12:13 am

I had done similar things back in December, testing with single RAMs in each of the slots, but this was the first time with no RAM.
With no RAM and no video card, LED1 and LED2 light briefly then go out, with LEDs 3,4, and 5 coming and staying on.

Here is what I told Amigakit way back when:
Gerald Mathias on 2017-01-07 16:36:27
...If I press the reset button LEDs 4 (CPU power good) and 5 (SB600 running) go out and LED2 (CPU core supply fault) comes on. The thing labeled ETHERNET on the Nemo 2.1 Motherboard Layout Diagram flashes green for about a second, twice if I have held the button down and when I power up with the main button.
I'm not sure what to try next. Except for advice from the Hyperion forums.

Gerald Mathias on 2016-12-23 21:21:23
Needed magnifier but I found the arrow, thanks. LED1 is general power supply fault, 2 is core supply fault, 3 is SB600 power good. ..., 4 is CPU power good ..., 5 is SB600 running, 6 is local bus LED register. So I guessed 3, 4, 5 on is good. Maybe 6 should light too?go
I notice I didn't have anything to say about LED1. At this point he had decided it was not a RAM issue. I was told to "switch CFE to backup CFE, see if it boots then" and I reported that LEDs 2, 3, 4, and 5 all came and stayed on, but I wan't 100% sure that moving a certain juimper was really switching to backup CFE.

I am planning to remove the mother board and send it to them in a day or two. Unless you tell me that this report suggests something other.
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Re: Computer died

Postby mechanic » Thu Mar 30, 2017 1:22 am

LED 2 would tend to indicate either on board regulator or more likely the 3.5v from the power supply is either flaky or no good.

If the supply is bad then a low or wavering voltage can cause all manner or weirdness.

At this point I would advise a new power supply. Just make sure it has the same connectors as the original.
Trying to go further with advise or instructions might only lead to more problems.

If you replace the power supply let us know, and make sure the jumper is where it should be as original.

When you're ready. :)
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Re: Computer died

Postby kilaueabart » Fri Mar 31, 2017 12:47 am

Maybe my last response was misleading. When the flash selector is in the normal position, LED2 comes on briefly, but doesn't stay on. I would think the Amigakit guy would have suggested a power supply problem.

Moving the jumper to rescue position comes with a dire warning:
Note that it is possible to corrupt the rescue flash image. This jumper should only ever be moved to position 2-3 in an emergency, and instructions for recovering the normal flash image should be followed with great care.
With the jumper in rescue position, LED2 does in fact stay on. Also, there is no serial output. But when I replaced the jumper to 1-2 position, LED2 went back to blinking and serial output went back the way it had been, in spite of doing nothing to recover the normal flash image.

I'll give some thought to replacing the power supply, but I'm skeptical. Maybe the rescue flash was already corrupt and sending a wrong signal?
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Re: Computer died

Postby mechanic » Fri Mar 31, 2017 2:00 am

I do think you have a plan.

This is what I'm saying.

If you send the board out and it is repaired, will you be confident about connecting it back to a possible wonky power supply?

Yes, I know things are not cheap or free, but like most of us you will, over time, have a closet full of bits, pieces, too many cables, and things you dare not throw away. Because the day you toss it out is the day you will need it. A spare power supply? Now you're into computing. ;-)

It is six-of-one, half-dozen-the-other. Free advice is always worth what you pay for it, and opinions.......

Keep us informed.
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Re: Computer died

Postby kilaueabart » Sun Apr 02, 2017 2:33 am

mechanic wrote:3. If your LEDs are as they should be re-insert the memory, a good push untill the tabs self lock in,
---and test the LEDs again.

Let us know this info before going further.

LEDs without mem.?
LEDs with mem.?

Since you think my results with memory (the same as yours without memory) mean I should get a new power supply, I wish you had given your results with, so I could really see what tells you my memory is likely bad. Anyway, I've been too busy with jobs on the SAM and the RPi3 to remove the motherboard, and I will look into power supplies before I do remove it. (It'll be hard getting into the X1000 for either job. My SAM460 balances on top of it, for lack of space in this room, and the RPi3 on top of the SAM. I guess I should get rid of my boxes of old cables and hard drives and dead uninterrupted power supplies...)
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Re: Computer died

Postby mechanic » Sun Apr 02, 2017 7:46 pm

I did go through the bad power supply bit last August and it wasn't pretty. It took out 2 hard drives, CFE, and I'm now using the original Radeon 4650 card because I'm afraid to re-install the 6850. I'll try that in some ready-for-recycle x86 first.

I wish you had tried a new Power supply before moving the cmos jumper to the backup position but it should be okay if it is indeed the power. Just make sure the jumper is in the original position before doing anything else.

Been there, done that. Go slow.
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